Sunday Mar 16m 2008
Mazamitla to Acámbaro, 284 miles
Explored back roads from Mazamitla to Valle Juarez to Tocumbo (the back way), Los Reyes, Angahuan, Corpu to Paracho (again, the back way).
Tocumbo is the birthplace of the Michoacana ice cream chain. It all started right here and made the whole extended family rich. It was HOT in Tocumbo and Reyes. Had to shed my riding jacket for the first time.
Its Indian country around Zacán, Angahuen, Corpu, and San Felipe. Having a great time. Just stopping to ask directions turns into a cultural event, I'm presented a chair to sit down, offered a place to sleep. These people are amazing. Wear funny hats. A funky backwoods church service in a village I didn't catch the name of, with the same palm fans they were selling in Mazamitla, must be Palm Sunday. Saw a group of about 15 old men in Cherán, all siding on a low wall, all wearing the same kind of hats. A couple of them made eye contact with me. They recognize the spirit I carry. Look at that dude on that bad-ass Harley. And I kick myself. Why didn't I stop?? They were practically asking me to.
Paracho looks like a good place to base out from. And the stretch of road between Paracho, to Cherán and Corapán is amazing. Volcano alley. Pine trees from Zacán to Corapán. Farming out around Corpu and San Felipe. These are all hamlets near Paracho, north of Uruapan, in the state of Michoacan. I stop and bundle up. Getting muy cold again.
Ok, playtime over. Time to go home. I get on the Cuota superhighway headed east. It's night time but the Cuota's are easy at night. 'Cept it was freezing ass cold. And absolutely nothing on the Cuota roads. No bill boards, no hotels, no service stations, nothing. You are out there. What am I doing? Freezing, and I'm tired. Pull off at Acámbaro. (pronounced ah-CAHM-bahrow, practically dropping the first "a" altogether). Well I'm so sleepy I don't enter the right lane to exit the toll road, pay another $10, then have to go back against traffic to catch the exit coming the other direction and end up having to pay again.
Motel California
Then no worthwhile hotels in Acámbaro, which is one podunk town. Settle at Motel California, $18. Bare minimum hotel, 4 walls, good lighting, large room with clean tile floors, no furniture, double mattress is on a cement platform, with night tables built into the walls and floors. No toilet seat, no shower curtain. But hot water. Lot better than sleeping out and the bike is in its own garage right next to the door.
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